SURFEO, LUEGO EXISTO

SURFEO, LUEGO EXISTO

Tom Blake

'' I like to live in Hawaii because of the natural beauty of everything here: the very blue sky, very white clouds, very green mountains, clothed in foliage to their ridges. My greatest pleasure in life is through my eyes, so why should I stay around main streets or cities? The coco palms waving in the clean trade winds, the colors of the water on the coral reef greet my eyes each day as I near the beach, and when the waves are breaking white, far from shore, it means surf is waiting, and I actually break into a run to get home, wear trunks and grab my favorite surfboard. '' Tom Blake.  1935.

''In this crowded world the surfer can still seek and find the perfect day, the perfect wave, and be alone with the surf and his thoughts. " John Severson. 1960.

John Severson

Paul Witzig

"Surfers are a new race. I’d like to fully convert them to a free surfing life before society takes them and molds them into cannon meat or some other role our olders have chosen for youth...Of all men, the surfer, almost alone, strives to live in harmony with nature and the world around him. This the sea teaches him, and he asks for no more, because he receives everything. " Paul Witzig 1972.

"You know, there are so many waves coming in all the time, you don’t have to worry about that. Just take your time, wave will come. " Duke Kahanamoku. 1911.

Duke Kahanamoku